405 

' ' PRACTICAL 



SKUNK RAISING. 



A BOOK OF INFORMATION 
CONCERNING THE RAIS- 
ING OF SKUNKS 
FOR PROFIT. 

By 
WILLIAM EDWIN PRATT. 



Published by William E. Pratt. 



PRACTICAL 
SKUNK RAISING. 



A BOOK OF INFORMATION 
CONCERNING THE RAIS- 
ING OF SKUNKS 
FOR PROFIT. 

By 
WILLIAM EDWIN PRATT. 




Published by William E. Pratt. 



^^th 



Copyright 1915, 
By WILLIAM E. PRATT. 






(e)C!.A4085 75 

JUL 19 1915 



CONTENTS. 

Chapter — ■ 

1. — Introduction. 

2. — Ground. 

3.— The Fence. 

4. — Pens. 

5. — Dens. 

6. — Cage Litter. 

7. — Food Troughs. 

8. — Food House. 

9. — Feeding. 
10. — Water Troughs. 
11. — Examining Box. 
12, — Diseases. 
13.— Rats. 
14. — Disinfectants. 
15. — Hospital. 

16. — Breeding and Winter Management. 
17. — Barren Females. 
18. — Breeding Mothers. 
19. — Young. 
20. — Escapes. 
21. — Disarming. 
22. — How to ship skunks. 
Conclusion. 



Practical Skunk Raising:. 

By William E. Pratt. 

The supply of wild fur has already fallen 
behind the demand and the time is in sight 
when wild fur will form but a small per cent 
of that in use. 

All furs trapped in steel traps are less 
beautiful because the animal suffers. It is 
a well-known fact that the less the animal 
suffers, the better the fur. 

The time is not far away when nearly all 
fur will be grown on fur-ranches. Fur- 
farming unquestionably has a great future 
as an industry. 

Without detailing countless failures; it is 
well to begin by disposing of the wrong idea 
that most people begin with, that all they 
need to do is secure an island or a big 
fenced area, and throw in much feed to a 
bunch of selected fur-bearers, and reap a 
harvest of so many pelts each year. 

The absurdity of this is seen if we com- 
pare it to a horse-breeder who would put a 
high fence around a large pasture and turn 
in a couple stallions and a dozen mares; 
throw in much feed daily, end expect a har- 
vest of so many colts, each year. 

No, — success depends on general super- 
vision and control of each individual. 

Skunks raise a better coat in captivity than 
Avhen wild, because their food is gotten with- 
out hunting for it, and are beyond danger 
of man, dogs, and other intruders. Striped 
skunks ten years ago sold for one dollar per 
pair, while only two dollars per pair was 
paid for "star blacks". Three years ago or 
more these prices had doubled, and a skunk 
with his scent glands out was even more 
valuable. 

— 5 — 



One male and two females is a good lot 
to begin with, which would increase to 
twenty young the first year, and one hun- 
dred and fifty the second, providing one 
could wait that long, and one certainly 
could not expect any dividend until the fifth 
year. 

2.— The Ground. 

An acre of ground is sufficient to begin 
with, but one must have it situated so one 
could increase to perhaps ten acres. It 
should be high, dry and sandy, with some 
grass in the plot, and not too remote from 
a railway station. 

3.— The Fence. 

An inexpensive fence to begin with may 
be made by setting posts in the ground close 
together, but strongly. I recommend a fence 
made of wire netting or steel set or inbed- 
ded in the ground from one to two feet. 
First, dig a trench about one foot wide and 
two feet deep, and put heavy rock in the 
bottom and thus, with the rock below the 
wire there will be no way that the skunks 
can escape by digging. 

The posts should be set ten feet apart. If 
set farther the wire will have a tendency to 
sag. The wire should be of one and a half 
inch mesh for the main fence, and one inch 
mesh for the breeding yards, as young 
skunks sometimes escape through a one 
and a half inch mesh. No. T6, or 18, 
gauge wire from four to eight feet in height 
should be used. Any smaller gauge than 
the above mentioned is not durable enough. 

A wire or board inhang of twelve inches, 
should be placed at the top rejecting in so 
the animals can't climb out. This is at- 
tached by slats nailed along the tops of the 
posts and the wire nailed to them. Steel 

-- 6 -- 



sheeting needs no inhang, because it is so 
that the skunks cannot get a foothold. 

If the skunks dig at night to get out fill 
up the holes as soon as possible and thus 
discourage the workers. 

The big pen or large e^- "closure, serves as 
a range for the barren females, males, and 
young skunks during autumn. 

4. — Pens. 

Many breeders consider pens better and 
cheaper than dens. These are little runs 
about ten feet square, separated only by a 
three foot netting which has an inhang or 
overhang as it is some times called, of a 
foot on each side, so the skunks cannot 
climb in or out. If boards are used for 
pens inside the big fence no overhang is 
needed. All pens should be completely 
floored with mesh wire three or four inches 
under surface. 



5. — Dens. 

Every cage or pen needs a movable den 
that is dry, sanitary portable, easy for ob- 
servation, and warm. This last feature is 
important, for skunks are sensitive to cold 
which causes pneumonia. The dens shouM 
be well supplied with straw and rags, (avokl 
hay) because the seeds are injurious to the 
nostrils. 



6. — Cage Litter. 

After trying smooth floored dens, and 
floors strewn with straw, chips, ashes and 
sawdust; I feel safe in recommending saw- 
dust, as it's great absorbent power helps 
to keep clean dens. It should cover the 
floor to a depth of two inches. 



7.— Food Troughs. 

Do not use wooden troughs; they are 
unsanitary. Pie dishes either tin or ware, 
will do if the sides do not flare. If they do 
the skunk usually spills the milk or any 
liquid in the dish, by standing on the sides 
with its paws. 

8.— Food House. 

The food and tool-house should be in the 
pen for convenience. There should be mice 
and rat-proof vessels to keep the oatmeal 
and dry biscuit, cheese, and meat in. It 
should be equipped with a large boiler for 
boiling oatmeal and meat in. The meat 
may also be smoked as this will preserve it, 
and is greatly preferred by the animals. 
The meat may be hung out of reach of the 
rats in sacks. 

g.—Feeding. 

Skunks like most animals are omnivorous. 
A continuous unbroken diet of meat would 
eventually wipe out the stock; as would a 
diet solely vegetable. Moderate varied feed- 
ing is essential. Adult skunks are fed once 
a day, they themselves prefer it after dark. 
Staple articles of food are beef, rabbit, cow 
liver, chicken giblets, oatmeal, and other 
porridge, cooked potatoes and milk; any- 
thing a dog will eat with fruit and insects 
added. Be sure the meat is clear of infec- 
tion. 

Another staple article of food is a bread 
made of bran and shorts. Mix with three 
quarts of sour milk, enough flour to make a 
stiff dough. Roll dough out until it is an 
inch thick and bake for an hour like bread 
in a hot oven. 

This is much relished by all fur-bearing 
animals, and is still more acceptible if 

— 8 — 



flavored with a few spoonfuls of black 

molasses. 

Milk must be given sparingly unless it 
agrees with the stock. Once a week is 
enough, more than that is liable to induce 
scouring and other disorders. Half a dog 
biscuit, and a few scraps of meat are enough 
for a skunk's daily allowance. Of course 
some should have more than others accord- 
ing to their needs. 

A brooa-mother growing or suckling her 
young should have as much as she can eat 
twice a day, morning and evening. 

When winter comes, skunks retire to their 
dens and eat nothing for weeks. In March 
the feeding is resumed and in April the 
brood mothers are extra fed with a pre- 
ponderance of meat, much of it raw. It costs 
from twenty-five cents to a dollar to feed a 
skunk from June first to December first. 
Meat and fresh water are necessary at all 
times for brood-mothers, for if this is neg- 
lected they will devour the young as soon 
as born. 

10.— Water Troughs. 

Skunks drink much, and often. They 
must have plenty of fresh water at all 
times; especially when the young are ex- 
pected. The vessel that the water at all 
times is kept in should be washed every 
day. In winter the skunks lap up snow in- 
stead of water. 

11. — Examining Box. 

No cautious man would undertake to 
examine a wild skunk as he would a dog 
or rabbit. Yet it is important to know sex 
and condition of each new skunk as it 
arrives. This may be easily and quickly 
done by means of an examining box. This 
is a small box 10" by 8" by 6" covered with 

— 9 — 



a chicken wire of about one incii mesh on 
the top. There should be a six inch entrance 
at one end of the box. 

On the solid wood bottom is a handle 
which is of course the top, when the box 
is turned wire side down. 

Chase the skunk in the entrance slowly 
and then lift the box up by the handle and 
look under without fear. As soon as the 
operation is over the skunk will seek his 
proper den. 

12. — Diseases. 

The keeper should watch the animal'^ 
dung, if too fluid or too soft, too copiousor- 
too little, there is something wrong. Their 
appetite, and the dung are the great tests. 
If these are right there is little chance of 
anything being wrong. 

Greed — Some cases often abound among 
skunks such as over-eating; by getting all 
they can from the other skunks, after eat- 
ing their own food. Such freaks should be 
isolated and marketed as soon as possible. 

Cannibalism — Sometimes when enclosures 
are small the mothers devour the young as 
soon as born. This is sometimes the result 
of quarreling. Always build the enclosures 
large enough so the skunks have plenty of 
room. 

Murder — Murder must be considered a 
disease. Some individuals are incapable of 
it while others are very prone to it. The 
last mentioned soon make themselves 
known. They should be marketed as soon 
as possible. 

Distemper — This may be detected by the 
animals eyes and nose running. The animal 
should be sent at once to the hospital, and 
treated by washing the nose and eyes with 
a solution of boric acid and water. 

-^ 10 .— 



Mange — Mauge is considered a serious 
disease, and is caused by lieas wliicii induce 
the animal to scratch. The tur gets thin 
and the body is covered with scabs, 'this 
may be cured by applying a good fiea 
powder and a dip. 

Worms — Worms may be eliminated by 
feeding the skunks in a dish of clear, sharp, 
sand. 

Other Foes — While the armed skunk tra- 
vels about without fear of man or beast, it 
must be remembered that the disarmed 
young skunks may be killed by dogs, or 
taken by horned ow'ls or any other large 
bird. 

13.— Rats. 

Rats are a great nuisance about a fur 
ranch. They often dig holes and teach the 
young skunks the way to escape. The also 
kill the young, and are quick enough to keep 
out of the way of the mother. 

1 4 . — Disinfectants . 

Those I use are — Chloride of lime, perox- 
ide of hydrogen, and lysol, 2%. 

To disinfect a den, put it in a large tub 
and soak it in "sheep dip". 

To disinfect a corner, sprinkle with chlor- 
ide of lime. 

15. — Hospital. 

The hospital is a series of cages, quite 
removed from the other, with the earth and 
grass for a floor, and good opportunities 
for a "sun bath". Sick animals should be 
put in the hospital as soon as noted. 

16. — Breedings and Winter Manage- 
ment. 

The stock should be mated about Novem- 
ber or December, Put one male to four or 

— 11 — 



five females. It is well to watch them for 
a few days to make sure the group is har- 
monious. Often it happens that one female 
will quarrel with the others. 

She should be removed and tried some- 
where else. If one is seen outside the den 
constantly, this is the cause. 

Put plenty of straw in the den and they 
will make themselves comfortable enough. 

During the winter they eat nothing. Some 
breeders deem it wise to feed a light meal a 
week. 

Mating time is from the middle of March, 
starting with February. Males must not 
meet at this time for they will fight, until 
one or the other is killed. 

17. — Barren Females. 

Three or four days after mating season 
has set in, remove the male and try some 
other male in, or for a few days. As the 
males are decided in their likes and dislikes. 
Neglect of this precaution will result in a 
large proportion of barren females. 

18. — Breeding Mothers. 

By April first every female should be 
given a separate den. and well fed and cared 
for. 

This is the most important time of all, 
success or failure depends on the manage- 
ment of the mother at this time. Toward 
the end of the month she should be given 
raw meat and plenty of water. This diet 
should be given until mid-May, as this allays 
the meat craving which causes the mother 
to devour the new-born young. 

I will repeat again the watchwords of 
success — 

Proper sanitation, seclusion, and quiet, 
an abundance of raw meat and fresh water. 

— 12 — 



The period of gestation is nine weeks; 
the young are born in mid-May. 

The young females have from four to six 
young the first litter and the older females 
have from eight to sixteen to one litter. 

Never put two females with young, in the 
same house for they will fight and steal one 
and anothers young. 

One family in one house is a good old 
rule to observe. 

When one month old they are able to 
walk around and drink milk. I would ad- 
vise disarming and weaning at this time. 

19. — Young. 

The young grow very fast and soon be- 
come as tame as kittens, some show their 
amazing temper at this age, from the be- 
ginning. 

At thirty days they walk alone and drink 
milk. At sixty days they will weigh on the 
average of six lbs. each, and appear to be 
half grown. At six months they are full- 
grown, and weigh from four to six lbs. 

At this age they are ready to be marketed, 

20. — Escapes. 

It is well to be prepared for escapes. A 
properly constructed fence will prevent this. 

Two contrivances should be in stock-net 
and traps. 

Net — This is an ordinary dip net to put 
over them. 

Traps — These are box traps, or "catch- 
alives". They are easily constructed, and 
one half dozen will be found convenient for 
many purposes. 

21. — Disarming. 

To prevent a shot from this, deadly battery 
of the skunk they are disarmed while very 
young. When animals are young the opera- 

— 13 — 



tion is a simple one; but when performed 
when they are grown not more than one out 
of three survives the operation. 

When ready for disarming, spread a bur- 
lap or gunnysack across your lap and order 
the assistant to bring the skunk. He must 
be careful to hold it by the tail, with it 
near the ground. The sack is then rolled 
around the animal; rear exposed. 

The assistant holds the animal firmly and 
double muffles the eyes, so it cannot pos- 
sibly see. A skunk seldom shoots unless it 
sees an enemy. 

The proper instruments consist of a scal- 
pel, clamping forceps, extracting forceps, 
hook and goggles. 

The scent sacks are located one on each 
side of the vent off one fourth inch from the 
vent. 

To disarm — First make an incision three 
eights of an inch long and one half an inch 
from the vent. 

As soon as the incision is made, cut 
deeper until the scent sac appears, which 
is about the size of a bean in young skunks 
and about the size of a marble in mature 
ones. 

With the blunt forceps, force the adhering 
muscles down off the sac, and cut the sac 
off one fourth inch from the vent. 

If the operation is done according to in- 
structions, there will be no loss whatever. 

Animals do not require disarming unless 
they are going to be shipped. If skunks 
are raised solely for fur, it is just as well 
to leave them armed. 

Express companies refuse to ship them 
unless scent sacks are removed. 

22.— How to Ship Skunk. 

Secure them when ready for market, by 
using a box-trap. Never try to handle 
them. 

— 14 — 



To ship them, put each in a small soap- 
box lined with tin. 

Cut a hole three inches square in the side 
and cover it with wire of one inch mesh. 

Fasten a thin in one corner of the box 
three inches from the bottom for water. 
Above this make a hole to pour water 
through. 

Mark it "water here". Make a lid in the 
box for convenience in feeding. 

One pound of dog biscuits, or bread, and 
a few scraps of meat will amply supply a 
skunk on the road. Label the bag "Seven 
days food". 

Do not fear to lift the lid and look in, for 
a skunk must be greatly alarmed and pro- 
voked before discharging musk. 

Conclusion. 

If the material in this book is thoroughly 
understood and mastered, and the reader 
is the proud possessor of two "star-black" 
skunks in a plot, fenced secure against 
escape, in five years he can reap large divi- 
dends. 




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